[Modes] remove enable and rewrite mode stack (squashed) (#84774)
Based on @ezyang's suggestion, mode stack now has "one true mode" which is the _only_ mode that can ever be active at the C++ level. That mode's torch dispatch is just to take the top mode in the stack, reenable itself (if we aren't at the end of the mode stack), and run the top mode's torch_{dispatch|function}
This maintains that in the middle of a mode's torch dispatch, the mode itself will not be active. It changes the function the user has to call to see what the current mode is (no longer queries the C++, it's python only) but allows the user to also see the entire mode stack easily
Removes `enable_torch_dispatch_mode` and `.restore()` since neither makes sense in this new setup
### Background
Why do we want this? Well, a pretty common pattern that was coming up was that users had to do something like
```python
## PRE-PR UX
def f(mode):
with mode.restore(): # user needs to understand this restore thing?
...
with Mode() as m:
pass
f(m)
```
Many users were getting error from forgetting to call `.restore` or from forgetting to add the (tbh weird) "mode instantiation" step where they use the mode as a context manager with an empty body. Really, they wanted to treat modes like context managers and just write
```python
## FROM FEEDBACK, USER DESIRED CODE. POSSIBLE POST-PR
def f(mode):
with mode:
...
f(Mode())
```
** Technical Details **
With the old mode stack, we basically had a linked list so the mode itself could only be used once and had a fixed parent. In this new design, the mode stack is just a python list that we're pushing to and popping from. There's only one mode that's ever active at the C++ level and it runs the next mode in the Python list. The modes don't have state on them anymore
Pull Request resolved: https://github.com/pytorch/pytorch/pull/84774
Approved by: https://github.com/ezyang, https://github.com/zou3519
